雪媚格 | White as snow… 洁白如雪的肌肤秘密

发表时间：2021-06-05 16:33

White as snow… 洁白如雪

your skin really doesn't have to be. But undesired pigmentation spots may well disappear, according to the wishes of many clients at the institute. Learn which ingredients and cosmetic treatments are suitable for achieving such a goal.

你的肌肤不需要达到洁白如雪。但是根据许多顾客的治疗目标，希望褪去令人不悦的色斑。那么就一起了解哪些产品成分和美容护理可以帮助达到这一目标。

Hyperpigmentation is usually a harmless discolouration of the skin. The spots can exist since birth or may develop in the course of life - in which case they are referred to as acquired hyperpigmentation. The cause is a local overproduction of pigment, melanin, or a local increase in pigment-forming cells, melanocytes. Triggering factors are UV radiation, hormonal influences, a genetic predisposition, aging processes as well as injuries and inflammations of the skin.

Hyperpigmentation is considered to be very undesirable, especially on the face. A skin complexion with different shades of colour appearing uneven, blemished is often unconsciously associated with old age. It is no wonder that people want to get rid of these unwanted spots as fast as possible. A skin care professional can help with this, because there is a wide range of ingredients, products and also treatment methods to choose from! Two active principles are essential for brightening substances and treatments: On the one hand, the pigmentation process should be stopped. This can be achieved by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin formation. On the other hand, the degradation of existing pigments should be promoted at the same time.

在这种情况下，它们被称为后天性色素沉着。其原因是局部色素(即黑色素)的过量生产，或色素形成细胞(即黑色素细胞)的局部增加。触发因素包括紫外线辐射、荷尔蒙影响、遗传易感性、老化过程以及皮肤损伤和炎症。色素沉着是非常不受人们喜欢的，特别是在面部的色斑。不同色度的皮肤看起来不均匀，有瑕疵，通常会无意识地让人感觉到衰老。所以人们想尽快祛除这些不必要的斑点。皮肤护理专家可以为您提供帮助，因为有多种成分、产品以及疗法可供选择！两个对成分和疗法必不可少的有效原则是：一方面，应抑制色斑产生过程。这可以通过抑制酪氨酸酶来实现，酪氨酸酶是黑色素形成中的关键酶。另一方面，应同时促进现有色斑的降解。

Have a very close look 近距离观察

Before starting a treatment, the skin care professional should first safely classify the existing pigmentation. An expert look through the magnifying lamp may help here - or the "pinch test".

This simple test enables the skin care professional to assess the effectiveness of the treatment in advance and thus directly put together a complete treatment plan, as deep-ying dermal pigment is always more difficult to treat. In addition, an experienced skin care professional should be familiar with brightening or pigment-mitigating ingredients and their advantages and disadvantages. With some ingredients for skin brightening, the aggressiveness towards the skin can increase with the effectiveness - the results are irriitations of the skin, as for example with kojic acid. It is controversial because it can cause inflammation when it is applied on the skin. Although many brightening ingredients effectively inhibit tyrosinase, they can also have a cell-damaging effect at the same time. Some brightening ingredients have therefore already been banned for the use in cosmetics, such as hydroquinone.

Ingredients whose efficacy has been proven in numerous in-vitro and in-vivo studies and which are safe and harmless to use are recommended. The following overview shows which ingredients are available to the consumer in the cosmetics industry and what restrictions may exist.

在开始治疗之前，皮肤护理专业人员首先应该对现有的色斑进行分类。专家通过放大灯仔细观察可能有助于分辨其类别-或“捏法测试”。

这个简单的测试可以让护肤专业人士提前评估治疗的效果，从而直接制定一个完整的治疗方案，因为深层的皮肤色素往往更难治疗。此外，一个经验丰富的皮肤护理专业人士应该熟悉亮白成分或淡化色素成分及其优缺点。使用一些能提亮皮肤的成分，其效果也会增强对皮肤的侵犯性——其结果是刺激皮肤，比如曲酸。这是个具有争议性的成分，因为将其使用于皮肤上时可能会引起炎症。虽然许多亮白成分能有效抑制酪氨酸酶，但同时也有破坏细胞的作用。因此，一些亮肤成分已被禁止在化妆品中使用，比如对苯二酚。

推荐在许多体外和体内研究中证明有效且使用安全无害的成分。以下概述说明了化妆品行业的消费者可以使用哪些成分以及可能存在哪些限制。

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has been proven to inhibit tyrosinase and therefore brightens the skin. There is a positive side effect: It also stimulates collagen synthesis. Free vitamin C is less suitable because of its instability to atmospheric oxygen and its low penetration capacity, but very effective vitamin C combinations are available. A combination of ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, which act synergistically, has proved to be particularly effective: Ascorbyl phosphate penetrates better and faster, ascorbyl glucoside is absorbed continuously, therefore ensuring a long-term supply of vitamin C. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate as oil-soluble vitamin C is very well absorbed by the skin and converted into free vitamin C there.

维生素C（抗坏血酸）已被证明可以抑制酪氨酸酶，从而使皮肤亮白。它还有一个积极的附带作用:促进胶原蛋白的合成。由于游离维生素C对大气氧的不稳定性和低穿透力，因此不太适合，但高效的维生素C组合是可行的。抗坏血酸磷酸酯和抗坏血酸葡萄糖苷的组合，发挥协同作用，经验证其具有优质效果: 抗坏血酸磷酸酯渗透性更好更快，抗坏血酸葡萄糖苷被不断吸收，因此，它们可以确保维生素C的长期供应。作为油溶性维生素C，抗坏血酸四异戊酯能被皮肤很好地吸收并转化为游离维生素C。

Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) is a real miracle weapon in cosmetics. It has been proven, for example, that it reduces uneven pigmentation and moderately brightens the skin. Niacinamide helps to prevent melanin from penetrating into the upper layers of the skin.

维生素B3(烟酰胺)是化妆品中真正的神奇武器。科学验证了其有效性：能够减少不均匀的色素沉着，并适度提亮皮肤。烟酰胺有助于防止黑色素渗透至皮肤的上层。

Hexylresorcinol is another safe and effective " brightener" with a long history in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic field. The effect is comparable to that of hydroquinone, but without the accompanying side effects. The ingredient influences the melanocytes and has a skin-brightening effect by reducing the melanin content.

己基间苯二酚是另一种安全有效的“光亮剂”，在医药和化妆品领域有着悠久的历史。其效果与对苯二酚相当，但没有副作用。该成分能影响黑素细胞，降低黑色素含量，具有亮白肤色的作用。

Arbutin is a very effective ingredient in brightening products that is approved for cosmetics. The ingredient is under discussion because it can release hydroquinone, which is banned in Europe for cosmetic skin brightening. However, in 2015, the Scientific Advisory Committee (SCCS), whose justifications are incorporated into the legislation, assessed the use of arbutin in cosmetics as safe in small doses.

熊果苷是一种非常有效的美白成分，被批准用于化妆品。人们对该成分有争论是因为它会释放出对苯二酚，而此物质在欧洲被禁止用于皮肤美白。然而，2015年，欧盟消费者安全科学委员会（SCCS）将其理由纳入立法，评估了在化妆品中使用少量熊果苷的安全性。

Don't forget to wear sun protection!

不要忘记防嗮！

Regardless of whether cosmetic, medical or, at best, collective approaches are used to reduce undesired hyperpigmentation, there is one thing that is essential – sun protection! Without sufficient and, above all, consistent protection against UV rays, all efforts to remove spots and lighten the skin are wasted, as UV rays naturally stimulate tanning and consequently pigmentation of the skin. In addition, the already treated and thus lightened skin is significantly more sensitive to light.

无论是通过美容、医疗还是结合式疗法来减少不悦的色素沉着，有一件事是必不可少的——防晒！最重要的是，如果没有足够的、持续的紫外线防护，所有祛除色斑和美白皮肤的努力都将白费，因为紫外线会晒黑皮肤，从而导致皮肤色素沉着。此外，接受过治疗的皮肤对光线更敏感。

Our tip: Try the pinch test!

我们的小贴士：尝试捏法测试

This test makes it easier to determine the position of the pigment in the skin: if the pigment can still be seen when the skin is pinched, it is superficial, i.e. epidermal. If the pigment disappears when the skin is pinched, it is more likely to be deeper, i.e. dermal.

这个测试更容易确定色素在皮肤中的位置:如果色素在皮肤被捏时仍然可以看到，那它是处于浅表的位置，即表皮。如果色素在皮肤被挤压时消失，它更有可能是在皮肤更深的地方，即真皮。

Kojic acid is not yet regulated for the use in cosmetics in Europe, i.e. it is not banned, but it is very controversial. Depending on the concentration, it can lead to skin irritations and even contact dermatitis and should therefore only be used by dermatologists. Although the ingredient is still widely used in Asia, it has already been banned in Switzerland.

欧洲尚未对曲酸在化妆品中的使用进行管制，即尚未禁止使用，但仍旧引起很大争议。根据浓度的不同，它可能会刺激皮肤，甚至导致接触性皮炎，因此仅由皮肤科医生使用。尽管在亚洲仍被广泛使用，但在瑞士已经被禁止。

Herbal extracts, e.g. from liquorice roots: In fact, liquorice extract and its ingredient glabridin have a similar effect to kojic acid. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase in the melanocytes and thus has a brightening effect - a suitable alternative to the controversial kojic acid.

草药提取物，例如甘草根:事实上，甘草提取物及其成分光甘草定具有与曲酸相似的作用。光甘草定能抑制黑素细胞中的酪氨酸酶，因此具有增亮作用——是有争议性的曲酸的合适替代品。

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid and effectively inhibits tyrosinase. However, locally applied azelaic acid is only effective in a high dosage, which is only possible in pharmaceutical products. In cosmetic products, the acid may be applied in low doses (up to max. 1 %) and only shows a brightening effect after a very long application time.

壬二酸是一种天然的二羧酸，能有效抑制酪氨酸酶。然而，局部施用的壬二酸仅在高剂量下才有效，而大剂量壬二酸只能用于医药产品。在化妆品中，这种酸可以低剂量使用（最多1%），仅在很长的施用时间后才显示增白效果。

Tranexamic acid is an amino acid that inhibits tyrosinase very effectively, which leads to a significant brightening of the skin. However, if the concentration exceeds one percent, a medicinal function cannot be ruled out, which makes it difficult to distinguish between cosmetics and medicine and thus restricts its use in cosmetics. The combination of tranexamic acid with peelings or microdermabrasion is quite popular.

氨甲环酸是一种氨基酸，可以有效抑制酪氨酸酶，从而使皮肤明显亮白。但是，如果浓度超过1%，就不能排除有药用功能，这就难以区分化妆品和药品，从而限制了它在化妆品中的使用。氨甲环酸祛角质或微晶磨皮的结合疗法是很受大众欢迎的。

Peelings: In cosmetics, natural peelings such as herbal peelings but also chemical, fruit acid peelings are used in treatments. The effect of the fruit acid peel depends on the pH value, the concentration and the type of substance being used. By removing skin flakes and peeling the skin with subsequent stimulation of cell renewal, superficial (epidermal) pigment can be broken down and be removed more quickly after several treatments.

祛角质: 在化妆品中，有天然祛角质疗程，例如草药换肤，也有化学祛角质疗程，例如果酸祛角质等。果酸祛角质疗程的酸性影响取决于pH值、浓度和所用物质类型。通过去除皮肤屑片和脱皮，刺激细胞更新，表面(表皮)色素可以被分解，并在多次治疗后更快地去除。

Pay attention to the state of the skin

注意皮肤的状态

If hyperpigmentation can be treated by a skin care profession

al, the individual treatment steps and the applied ingredients should be adapted to the skin condition (sensitive, blemished, etc.), as otherwise undesired reactions may occur. For best results, it is also necessary to combine regular treatments with consistent home skin care routine.

Unfortunately, brightening ingredients cannot guarantee to provide a "magic" cure. Only regular application over a longer period of time will lead to a visible result.

如果色素沉着过度可以由皮肤护理专家进行治疗，则应根据皮肤状况（敏感、油痘等）调整各个治疗步骤和所用成分，否则可能会发生不良反应。为了达到最佳效果，还必须将常规治疗与常规的家居皮肤护理相结合。

不幸的是，光亮剂不能保证提供“神奇”的治疗。只有在较长时间内定期使用才能产生明显的效果。

Licorice roots (Glycyrrhiza glabra) contain glabridin. The herbal ingredient is antioxidative and helps to brighten the skin by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase.

甘草根(glycyrhiza glabra)含有光甘草定。草药成分具有抗氧化作用，通过抑制酪氨酸酶，有助于提亮皮肤

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左：Dr. med. Christine Schrammek 姬丝汀·雪媚格医生

右：Christina Drusio 克里斯蒂娜·德鲁西欧

Dr. med. Christine Schrammek 姬丝汀·雪媚格医生

The managing director of Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG is a dermatologist and allergologist. As an anti-aging expert, she develops treatment methods such as the GREEN PEEL? herbal peeling treatment and dermatological care products.

Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG的董事总经理是一位皮肤科医生和过敏症专家。作为一名抗衰专家，她研发了诸如GREEN PEEL草本更新疗法和皮肤护理产品等治疗方法。

Christina Drusio 克里斯蒂娜·德鲁西欧

is part of the Dr. med. Schrammek owner family and management of Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG. As an expert of sensitive skin, the Medical Specialist for Dermatology and Venerology is a valued speaker at international lectures and seminars.

是雪媚格家族企业的经营者之一，也参与Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG的管理。作为敏感皮肤专家、皮肤科医生和性病医学专家，是国际讲座和研讨会的重要演讲者。